Thursday - June 14

Up at seven-thirty and met my roommate, a Mr. Watson from Denver. He was a man about fifty, grey haired and pleasant. This was his first water voyage as he had spent his life in interior places. After commenting briefly on the trip, I apologized to him for the disturbance I had caused when we sailed from Victoria, the time I cracked by head upon the hand rail. He was mildly sympathetic and left to have breakfast with his family.

We were now passing through Johnstone Straits. The land is timbered on both sides and several logging camps were in operation. The logs are towed south to mills located on the lower part of Vancouver Island and the mainland.

The sky is still overcast, but the fog has lifted a little. We arrived at Alert Bay at nine forty-five. The boat tied up at the dock of the Alert Bay Cannery and there was no need of the sign explaining the type of business being conducted. They were packing salmon, using modern machinery for chopping up the fish, cooking it and sealing it in cans. One operation was interesting. The whole fish is delivered to an Eskimo who hacks off the head, tail and fins with expert strokes of his long, thin-bladed knife. The head and backbone come off in one piece. The final cut empties the fish and the edible part is sent to the revolving blades of the chopper. The other, less attractive parts are thrown into a chute with well-aimed shots; a goal every time.

The totem poles at this place were interesting. They are of a different style from those seen elsewhere. Most totems are carved from hug logs, with decorations on all sides but these at Alert Bay were flat and to be viewed from the front only. Instead of having many colors they were done in simple taste, black and white only. In fact, the paint was fresh--we found the empty paint can in the bushes. Another thing that detracted from their appearance was the presence of modern marble tombstones. An ancient graveyard with modern improvements.

On the way back to the boat I met my Canadian friend, Mr. Merry of Winnipeg. We went to his room and after getting the situation in hand went down to lunch. The boat had sailed at ten forty-five. After lunch I went back to Mr. Merry's room to get my hat, camera and field glasses.

At lunch I was given a definite seating assignment. I had seat eight at table five. At my port side were two motherly old girls who decided to take care of me. Across the table were two young girls; very plain and quiet. They looked like the much heralded school teachers. Though I spoke to them several times during the trip the ice was not even cracked and they seemed to be more alone than I was.

Instead of chimes they have bugle calls on this boat to announce meal hours. Quite unnecessary when you have so little else on your mind. Dress call is blown a half hour before meals and there is a good old-fashioned reveille at seven in the morning. I am still eating too much, but then they offer five meals a day.

The land separates above Alert Bay and the boat passes through Queen Charlotte Sound to the first open stretch of water where there is land on the starboard side only. During the voyage the ship is in water open to the Pacific only three times, but not for long. We were in the open from two to five this afternoon and some of the passengers complained of mal de mer. I should worry.

About three o'clock the weather cleared up and it was quite warm on deck. Most of the people sit on the promenade deck at the breeze blows over the snow covered mountains on each side of us.

I have met a few more people. The card trick that worked on the "H.F." was again productive. There was an old sour-dough on board and I wanted to have him spin a yarn. It didn't take him long to butt into my solitaire game. He knew them all. I also caught a gentleman from Portland and finally Mr. Merry showed up. He had been sleeping on deck. Well! Well!

We turned inside from the sea about nine this evening, passing through Fitzhugh Sound and Lama Passage, and past the old Indian village of Bella Bella. It has been raining a little since six o'clock but it isn't bothersome.

There was turkey for dinner tonight.

The sun set at nine--a very beautiful sight with the heavily timbered mountains on both sides of us and the glistening water reflecting everything above it. The twilight lasts until quite late and the scenery is discernible even up to eleven o'clock.

Our string quartet converted itself into a dance band and there was dancing until ten-thirty. Met most of the girls, some of them were school teachers and didn't like to admit it. After the dance we had supperchocolate, crackers and cheese and cakes, and I hove to at eleven.


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